Dec 172007
 

From the New York Times Magazine profile on Mike Huckabee by Zev Chafets:

Six weeks ago, I met Huckabee for lunch at an Olive Garden restaurant in Midtown Manhattan. (I had offered to take him anywhere he wanted and then vetoed his first choice, T.G.I. Friday’s.)

It’s not a matter of elitism or cost. In a city with over 18,000 restaurants with tasty and affordable food, many of them small businesses, it’s sad that a presidential candidate would choose to visit a large Florida-based chain restaurant with mediocre food that promotes overeating and homogeneity. At the very least, he could have chosen to dine at a restaurant owned by a company whose core values mention food beyond becoming “the best casual dining company.” (Check out Darden Restaurant’s core values; they are a cookie-cutter set of values that could describe almost any business.) Given the level of imagination and innovation Huckabee has in his restaurant selection, can you trust him to lead the country?

Link via Ed Levine

 Posted by at 12:22 pm
Dec 142007
 

Food bloggers are once again running the Menu for Hope fundraiser. Last year, they raised over $60,000 for the UN World Food Programme. It’s a raffle with food and wine related prizes. Tickets for the prizes are $10 each, and you can enter as many times as you like for as many of the prizes as you like. So far, over $20,000 has been raised.

Some of the prizes I have my eye on include:

  • UE01: Dinner for 2 at Blue Hill at Stone Barns, from Adam at Amateur Gourmet
  • UE43: Personalized Copy of Michael Ruhlman’s ‘The Elements of Cooking’ from Ruhlman.com
  • WB02: Dinner in New York with Eric Asimov of the New York Times from Vinography

There are also prizes that I would enjoy, but would not be able to use easily:

  • EU31: A personal tour of elBulli kitchen laboratory at the new Alícia Institute with Ferran Adrià himself, from Chez Pim
  • EU01: Edible Paris custom food itinerary from Rosa Jackson
  • UK08: Custom designed wedding cake (worth £600 pounds) from Vanielje Kitchen
  • WB15: Labor of Love, a day in the vineyard in the South of France from La Gramiere

The fund raiser is for a good cause, so enter to win before it ends on December 21!

 Posted by at 12:40 pm
Dec 122007
 

Hairy crab is a specialty of Shanghai. You can buy the crabs around the city, including in the airport. In fact, the Shanghai airports recently had to enact a ban against carrying around unsecured crabs–apparently there were too many incidents of escaped crabs skittering around the airport.

Folks in Shanghai are very proud of their hairy crab, as you can see in the photos from Yuyuan Garden. I took this photo of a hairy crab on Wulumuqi Road, just around the corner from Sharon and Mark’s apartment. Note what looks like arm warmers near the claw–this is where Hairy Crab gets it name.
Shanghai Hairy Crab

Mark and I went hunting for Shanghai Hairy Crab on Saturday morning. The first place we tried to go (a hotel restaurant) was fully booked and a bit too expensive. We ended up across the street at Jade Garden on South Mao Ming Road. Jade Garden is a small chain of restaurants mainly located in Beijing, Shanghai, and Hong Kong. As you can see from their website, they definitely cater mainly towards the Chinese. In fact, Mark and I were one of only three obvious non-Chinese people in the restaurant, and it was full of families and groups of people. It was very elegant, and the staff was polite and kind despite our inability to speak Chinese fluently.
Jade Garden

We started out with some dumplings, both shrimp and pork.
Jade Garden shrimp dumplings

The pork dumplings were nice and juicy and reminded me a bit of soup dumplings from Joe’s Shanghai in the New York Chinatown. However, I don’t believe there was any additional soup; I think the liquid in the pork dumplings in Shanghai was simply juicy goodness from the dumpling filling.
Jade Garden pork dumplings

We wanted to get some vegetables, so on the recommendation of the waiter we ordered this dish. Neither of us were sure exactly what it was. We believe it was a pickled melon of some kind. It had a nice fresh and vinegar flavor with a nice snap. It was very nice dish–I wished that I understood more Chinese so that I could know the name of this dish.
Jade Garden pickled melon

Mark felt that we had not ordered enough vegetables, so he ordered this broccoli dish. The broccoli dish was at best interesting. I don’t think that either of us would order it again. The white substance on top of the broccoli was a very strong fish sauce; it was almost like a fish puree. The broccoli was just barely cooked, so there was a sharp contrast between the crisp broccoli and the thick, creamy fish sauce. This was the most challenging dish I ate in China. The joke was on Mark, of course–neither of us thought of this dish as a “vegetable” dish.
Jade Garden broccoli and fish sauce

Our final dish was the hairy crab. We ordered two crabs. They were served split in two in a thick soy sauce. The crab was delicious. It reminded me of the flavor of blue crab from Baltimore, but with a creamy, rich taste and a soft texture. Unfortunately, the crab were as difficult to eat as blue crab, and the sauce made the crab even more difficult to handle. The restaurant provide us with utensils to crack open and eat the crab, but it was messy business all around.
Jade Garden hairy crab

Mark and I had a fun time at Jade Garden. I recommend checking the place out.

 Posted by at 11:11 pm
Dec 112007
 

(Or as the Chinese say, street food in Shanghai)

Shanghai has a fantastic street food scene. A typical breakfast in Shanghai can consist of walking to your favorite street vendor and ordering up a small bit of food.

I got breakfast several days in a row on Wulumuqi Road next to Sharon and Mark’s apartment. It’s close to both the U.S. and Iran consulates. (Interestingly, these two friendly countries have consulates across the street from each other.)

Several of my meals were of a slightly sweet pork-filled dumpling. The dumplings are cooked in front of you and are sold in groups of four. However, no one orders just four–four is bad luck and not enough to eat. Eight is a more typical number–it’s just enough and a lucky number. Eight dumplings cost around 25 cents (one Yuan, eight Mao).
Pork dumplings in Shanghai
Pork dumplings in Shanghai
Pork dumplings in Shanghai
Pork dumplings in Shanghai
Mark and I took a group of dumplings back to the apartment to enjoy.
Pork dumplings in Shanghai
Pork dumplings in Shanghai

Another typical dish is steamed buns. You can get them with pork or vegetable filling, or even just plain. The dough is sweet, spongy, and filling. The steamers for the buns are all stacked on top of each other. The steam comes from the bottom and cooks the food as it rises through the steamers. Each level has a different kind of bun; you can ask to see the different levels or just ask for a specific bun.
Buns in Shanghai
Buns in Shanghai

I bought other street food while in Shanghai, but I don’t have pictures of all of them. Some other good street food I enjoyed included fried pancakes and roasted chestnuts. Here, people are lining up for either duck or chicken for lunch.
Buns in Shanghai

Like many other cities in the United States, Shanghai has any number of semi-outdoor groceries.
Street market in Shanghai
Street market in Shanghai

I also enjoyed sugar cane juice. For two Yuan (around 26 cents), you can get a glass of fresh squeeze sugar can juice. The sugar cane goes in one end and juice comes out the other end. The juice is both sweet and sour; it is very refreshing and a good afternoon snack. The plastic glass is very flimsy, and you need to be careful not to squeeze it too tightly or the juice will flip out all over the place.
Cane sugar juice in Shanghai

I was very happy with the street food scene in Shanghai. The food was fresh, affordable, and tasty. For the record and those folks who are nervous about eating food from street vendors, I did not get ill from the street food.

 Posted by at 11:33 pm
Nov 262007
 

McDonalds ChinaMy first night in China, we decided to eat regional food. There is a unique Scottish restaurant on the Wangfujiang shopping promenade. The Chinese seem to love this restaurant’s delectable items, which center around something they call a hambaobao. The United States would love this concoction, which is two all beef patties, topped with what is called “special” sauce, layered with crisp lettuce, luscious cheese, pickles, and onions. Finally, it is topped with a sesame seed bun. It is truly a combination of the best of Scottish and Chinese cuisines.

(Please feel free to throw in your own anti-globalization rant here. McDonalds and KFC outlets appear to be ubiquitous here. I have not visited either, although I have drunk both diet Coke and regular Coke!)

For folks who do not know me, the thought of eating McDonalds in a foreign country would be a bit odd. At the risk of sounding overly elitist, I am more likely to skip a meal than grab McDonalds, especially when I am visiting a new country. For my first meal in China, Mark, Sharon, and I decided to visit Quanjude, a restaurant that specializes in roast duck. We visited the newer branch of the restaurant; it is closer to my hotel. We got into the restaurant around 5:30 pm. While we were one of the first customers and were immediately seated, there was a large group of people waiting for seats when we left.

We ordered three dishes–a whole roast duck, a beef dish, and a dish of sauteed celery. The celery was tossed with oil, peeled walnuts, and red beans. The beef dish was rich and tender. However, the star of the meal was the duck. The skin was crisp, and yet it melted in your mouth. The meat was tender and lean. Unlike most duck meat in the United States, which is generally darker, this mean was pale but still flavorful.

The duck was sliced in front of our table. It was served with pancakes, sauce and chives. We also order some sesame rolls and formed small duck sandwiches with those as well. It was a treat, and the culinary highlight of my trip so far. The restaurant hands out a commemorative card for every duck sold. Our duck was the 1,150,292,355th duck sold since 1864.
Quanjude restaurant
Quanjude duck statue
Chef preparing Peking duck

After dinner, we walked around a small market by Wangfujiang. Small food stalls are scattered throughout the area. The food on the sticks are scorpions and seahorses.
Wangfujiang market
Wangfujiang market

Yesterday, I visited the Forbidden City, and this afternoon I fly to Shanghai.

 Posted by at 9:47 pm
Nov 182007
 

For the past few weeks, I’ve had a craving for Eggs Benedict. It takes a few minutes to prepare the dish from scratch, and I’ve been a bit busy the past few weekends. In addition, the dish can be a bit complex, especially if you make the hollandaise sauce from scratch. This morning, I finally got my act together and decided to prepare the dish.

I started out with the poached eggs. While it takes a bit of practice to make poached eggs that look beautiful, the basic recipe is very simple. First, simmer two to three inches of water in a saucepan wide enough for all of your eggs to sit without significantly touching. You should add some vinegar to the water; this will help the eggs to form up more quickly.

Here is an important trick when poaching eggs: don’t drop the eggs into the water. If you are very slick, you can break the eggs just over the surface of the water. I find it easier to break the egg into a small dish and gently slide the egg into the water. After the eggs are into the gently simmering water, just cook them for three to five minutes.

After a few minutes, use a slotted spoon to transfer the eggs to a small dish or bowl of clean water in order to remove any of the vinegar flavor. Then, transfer the egg to a towel and pat dry. (Be careful, of course, not to break the egg open–the yolk should still be runny.) You can choose to trim the egg of any excess whites if you like–it depends on your presentation.

While I was poaching the eggs, I quickly heated some Canadian bacon. Simply heat a pan or griddle and cook the bacon on both sides for a minute or so. Canadian bacon is generally fully cooked, so you really just have to heat it through.

English muffins are simple–pop them in a toaster and cook. I wish I had turned down my toaster a bit. Crispy English muffins are great for eating with your hands, but I think it’s easier to cut through English muffins with a regular knife when they are still a little soft.

For the last component of the Eggs Benedict, I prepared the hollandaise sauce. For all French sauces, one of the best references is Mastering the Art of French Cooking by Julia Child, Louisette Bertholle, and Simone Beck. I enjoyed preparing the sauce–in fact, it was the highlight of the dish. In essence, a hollandaise sauce is a butter and egg sauce flavored with lemon juice, salt, and pepper. In short, you use low heat to gently cook egg yolks with a bit of water. Salt and a tablespoon of lemon juice and is added and the cooking continues. Then, you add some whole butter and whisk it into the mixture to help stop the cooking. Melted butter is gradually added to the mixture to form a sauce; salt and white pepper is added to taste. In the end, there is around three tablespoons of butter for each egg yolk.

One of the keys of making a hollandaise sauce is to manage the heat. If the heat is too high, you end up with scrambled egg yolks. In order to manage the heat, I prepared the sauce using a double boiler. (Well, not really–I used a metal pan over a sauce pan with boiling water–same thing, though.) The hollandaise sauce has a lovely creamy texture and a delicate yellow/white color. It’s rich and velvety with a tangy (but not overpowering) flavor.

Assembly of the Eggs Benedict is a snap: English muffin, Canadian Bacon, poached Egg, and a generous topping of hollandaise sauce. And it’s an awesome dish. There’s a variety of textures as you bite through the bread, meat, egg, and sauce, and the flavors of each ingredient balance each other. The tang of the lemon juice balances against the smoke of the bacon, and the eggs and sauce provide a beautiful compliment to each other.

When I prepare the dish again, I would prepare the hollandaise sauce before the other elements. I believe I could have kept the sauce warm easily while keeping the other elements of the dish warm was a bit more difficult. The sauce is the most difficult element, and the other three elements can come together at the same time without trouble.

In the end, this dish is not so difficult. The entire time to prepare everything was between 30 and 60 minutes including cleaning. (And cleaning does take a bit of time–you end up using quite a few dishes to prepare everything.) It’s well worth it; I will certainly be making Eggs Benedict again.

 Posted by at 1:47 pm
Jun 272007
 

I am enjoying my job tremendously, even though I left just after 10 p.m. tonight. Objective C is an odd hybrid between languages like C and languages like Java. And the XCode development environment is not nearly as sophisticated as Microsoft’s Visual Studio. That being said, I’m enjoying learning a new language and working with a great bunch of people.

However, that’s not what this blog post is about. While we are going to be moving to Union Square, our offices are currently located at Broadway and 26th Street. Right around the corner from the offices, on 26th between Broadway and Sixth Avenue, is Hill Country Barbecue. I visited there tonight for a quick bite to eat on the way home.

My friend Jeremy and I went to Hill Country the weekend they opened. Unfortunately, there were a couple of service issues and by the time we were seated they were out of all beef products. However, I’m happy to say that after a couple of weeks it appears that the service issues have been resolved. And I got to have some brisket.

Hill Country is cafeteria-style dining of a sorts. It is similar to Katz’s Delicatessen. Each person gets a card on the way in; as you order food from the various stations, a record of your purchases are attached to the card. Unlike Katz’s, you are seated by the hostess and drinks are brought to you by the wait staff.

Today I had their lean beef brisket. It was probably the best barbecued beef brisket I have had in New York City. It had the obligatory rosy ring, a thin layer of fat, a blackened exterior, and a rich and smoky flavor. The beef was lean but still tender. There was no need for barbecue sauce as the meat was full of flavor.

In addition to the beef brisket, I also picked up some of their jalapeño cheese sausage. (Jeremy and I had enjoyed this sausage on our visit.) This was probably the best sausage I have had in New York City. Chunks of jalapeño add fire to the smooth texture of the meat. The snap of the sausage as you bit through lead me to believe that they are using a natural casing. And, while it doesn’t affect the flavor, the sausage also look good. (I’m tempted to order a bunch from Kreuz Market, but I don’t know if I could cook them as well!)

Of course, no restaurant is perfect. Jeremy and I shared the ribs. They aren’t bad, but I wouldn’t go out of my way for them. Personally, I prefer the ribs at Daisy May’s. And if you are looking for pulled pork, look elsewhere–this is Texas-style BBQ! (I recommend Virgil’s for a good, if sweet, pulled pork sandwich.)

The main thing to watch out for is how you order. This is not a cheap barbecue place, and you can spend a lot of money quickly! Most of the meat is sold by the pound. Keep in mind that a quarter-pound of brisket is a fairly decent portion. A bit of brisket and a sausage is easily enough food for one person. And if you are looking to get some side dishes and dessert, then I would only get one or the other. Another way to look at it is that this is a great place to go with a bunch of people. I recommend starting with less food than you think you want. You can always go back and get more since the setup is cafeteria style.

Jeremy and I shared a couple of side dishes. We got the cole slaw and potato salad. If I remember correctly, the potato salad was awesome and the cole slaw was not so great. The deviled eggs looked great, but were a bit too pricey to try.

The beer list at Hill Country is a standard list of popular beers with a couple of interesting additions. They are a full bar, but I have not had any mixed drinks there.

The atmosphere at Hill Country is very nice–lots of communal tables with several two and four tops. There are high ceilings giving the room a nice open feeling. I haven’t been downstairs, but they have live music which is piped to the upstairs. At times it felt a little loud, but it just added to the charm. They have worked out a lot of kinks in the service since Jeremy and I visited, but I would still be nervous about visiting if it were really busy.

I recommend Hill Country for good food and a fun time.

 Posted by at 10:54 pm
Jun 242007
 

This first day of summer was last week, and a perfect dish for summer is pasta with pesto sauce. It’s a very easy dish with any number of variations. My pesto tonight was fairly traditional: basil, garlic, pine nuts, Parmesan cheese, olive oil, and a bit of salt and pepper. I threw everything in a small grinder and a few minutes later I had a nice sauce. While I prepared the ingredients, I boiled some water and cooked linguine. When the pasta was done, I mixed it with the sauce and the dish was ready to eat!

I had my pasta with a nice half-bottle of Domaine de la Solitude Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It had a spicy flavor which complimented the strong flavors of the pesto.

 Posted by at 11:01 pm